Day 1
We set off from Victoria on a Monday night at about 1730 headed to Port Hardy for the night. The weather was atrocious: wet, windy, and cold. I kept my fingers crossed that the forecast would hold true and conditions would slowly improve over the next couple days. We arrived in Port Hardy at around 2300 and headed to bed rather late.
The next day we woke up a little later at 0700 and the weather was still pretty bad. It had rained all night and the ground was soggy. To top it all off, when we headed out to the truck in the morning Lauren noticed that one of her boots had filled with water in the back of my truck because my canopy doesn't close properly… We grabbed a quick coffee and breakfast and Lauren tried her best to dry her boot using newspaper and the heater from my truck.
By the time we arrived at the trailhead and loaded up our packs it was 1000. We had the parking lot to ourselves except for a couple park workers building an outhouse. The rain was coming down hard, but we were decked out in rain gear and ready to take on the trail. To our surprise, not long after we started hiking the rain subsided to a minimum. However, the trail was pretty darn flooded from days of constant rain. Much of the trail was under water and it wasn't long before we were dodging giant puddles, running through newborn creeks, and balancing on slippery logs. It was extremely slow going and we each had a good slip or two.
The first few kilometres seemed to pass by quick enough, but eventually time slowed. The going was tough and tedious and it took us 4 hours to do 10kms… I was not impressed with our time. To top it off there were intermittent hail storms, light rain, and wind gusts. It felt wrong to be headed out into the middle of nowhere with these conditions… Despite our visions of a warm cabin awaiting us we still packed a tent and tarp in case the cabin was locked or blown away in the wind. |
It was such a relief to drop my pack and take off my boots. My feet were soaked despite my gators. I forgot to apply a last minute water-proofing coat before our departure. On a funny note, Lauren had the driest feet of us all even though she started with a wet boot. The cabin was a dry haven and we quickly gathered supplies to light the fire in the wood stove. The stock of wood was pretty decent out back and people even left a few dry logs, paper, and pieces of kindling in the cabin. However, when I lit the fire smoke began to billow out of the wood stove through every crack and filled the cabin! We quickly opened all the windows and fanned the smoke out. We then started to scratch our heads- what the heck? We gave it a bit and then tried again, same effect…. hmmmm... | Eventually we hit the old farming fields at Hansen's Lagoon. This was rejuvenating. I knew it wasn't long until we arrived at the beach. I was excited for Lauren to see Nels Bight for the first time and I was longing for the shelter of the cabin. We hustled along and arrived at the beach at 1600. The wind was gusting hard as we made our way to the cabin. As always I held my breath as a turned the doorknob. Success it was unlocked!! |
Instead of warming ourselves by the fire, we all sat on chairs crowded around my dog with our feet tucked under him for warmth. Just as good? Not even close, sorry pup… We sipped warm beverages and then all piled into a bunk to play crib while wrapped in our sleeping bags. The cabin was at least a dry shelter from the storm ripping outside. We tucked into bed at a normal old lady time of 2100.
Day 2 The next morning my alarm went off at 0645. I laid in my warm sleeping bag until the sun rose just after 0700 and then crawled out to start the day's chores. When I went outside I noticed that the storm had subsided and the wind had ceased. I took a quick walk out onto the beach and snapped a few pictures. It was stunning. Flecks of blue in the sky and turquoise waves rolling into the sand. |
We saw Todd and Harvey's recent entries in the cabin visitor log and plea for people to visit their lighthouse. Thus, we decided to meander towards the lighthouse in search of glass balls. We set out at around 1100, which was a bit late. Because of the lowish tide, we made our way to Experiment Bight by following the beaches and small trails that meander along the edge of the coast rather than taking the traditional trail inland. Along the way we noticed fresh giant wolf tracks down below the tide line, which is always a bit frightening. We also found many interesting treasures including, but not limited to: 3 tooth brushes, 4 matching white hardhats, lightbulbs, ketchup and mustard containers, numerous japanese floats (none of them glass), glass bottles of all shapes and sizes, shoes of all kinds, and tires. It was an interesting adventure, but alas, not glass balls…
Eventually we crossed the sand dunes, which are always a magical sight. The windswept passageways of sand are filled with tiny dedicate shells that dissipate when you pick them up from months of being blown by harsh wind. We crossed many footprints left by wolves and dear. I imagined a constant chase throughout the dunes of hunters and prey. |
By the time we arrived at Guise Bay we decided that we didn't have enough daylight to make it all the way to the Lighthouse and back to Nels, or at least we would be pushing it and then not get to explore Nels. Thus we decided to have a quick lunch and head back to our home away from home- sorry Todd and Harvey! |
Day 3
*BEEP* *BEEP* goes the alarm at the cold dark hour of 0530. I stumbled out of my sleeping bag to a luke warm cabin and began doing the usual morning chores of making breakfast, packing, and cleaning up. We split up our garbage and went through some of the other junk many other hikers left behind. You're not fooling me into thinking your helpful when you leave gross old food no one wants to eat, 3/4 empty fuel cans, and garbage… This may seem harmless, but this stuff ADDS UP! No one else wants to pack your crap so pack in what you pack out people! Rant over...
At 0720 we left the cabin and headed down the beach into the wee light of the morning. The woods were still dark and we had to hike under the light of head lamps. When we emerged into the farm field it was misty and eery. The girls wanted to stop and take pictures, but I was on a mission to get us out! There are a few pictures below that they were able to snap.
This was another trip for the books. I still haven't made my way to Nissen Bight, but maybe next time. Also, the north coast trail would be great if I could ever find the time. Maybe next time I can hit both birds with one stone? Cheers!